Adventure in the Austrian Alps: Zellam See, Saalbach & Salzburg

The view over Zellam See lake whilst skiing

For our February getaway, we spent a week in Austria for a long-anticipated ski adventure. This was our first time visiting the country, and only our second time skiing as adults. Don’t judge—we grew up in Africa! After our first experience on the slopes in Switzerland last year, we were hooked. As another February approached, we found ourselves craving the crisp mountain air and the thrill of carving through fresh snow once again.

Austria was an easy choice—not only was it a more budget-friendly alternative to Switzerland, but the quick two-hour flight from Manchester and its legendary après-ski scene made it all the more appealing.

A Winter Wonderland in Zell am See, Saalbach & Salzburg

Looking back, this trip felt nothing short of magical. The snowfall was thick, the weather conditions were ideal for skiing—crisp and sunny, with clear blue skies and temperatures between -1 and 4°C—and the natural beauty was breathtaking. As for the après-ski? It exceeded all expectations! Zell am See and Saalbach boast an incredible variety of mountains and slopes to explore. As the gondola carried us up towards the icy peaks, we were met with a spectacular panorama of snow-covered pine forests stretching as far as the eye could see. Below, tiny animal tracks wound through the sea of white, alongside the occasional abandoned glove or ski pole—a reminder of the adventures (and mishaps) unfolding on the slopes.

Trip Itinerary:

17–24 February 2025

17–22 Feb: Zell am See (skiing)

22–24 Feb: Salzburg (sightseeing)

Day One: Arrival & Gearing Up

We caught the 7:20 AM flight from Manchester to Salzburg, where we were instantly surrounded by fellow skiers—many hauling their own ski bags, making us feel like complete amateurs for renting gear. From the airport, a short bus ride took us to the train station, where we boarded a scenic 1 hour 40-minute train to our destination: Zell am See, a charming lakeside town cradled by snow-capped mountains.

Upon arrival, we checked into Hotel Aurum, a cozy and perfectly located stay just below the ski slopes. With excitement brewing, we set off to explore our home for the week, taking in the serene lake views and indulging in a freshly made waffle drizzled with Nutella and topped with strawberries—the perfect welcome treat! Next, we picked up our ski passes and had our gear fitted at Ski Pro, where we were helped by the incredibly friendly Frans, who shared invaluable ski and sightseeing tips.

To celebrate the start of our adventure, we toasted with glühwein and tucked into a hearty dinner of bolognese and schnitzel at Crazy Daisy—a small taste of the carb-heavy, no-frills ski food awaiting us for the rest of the week. Our hotel room was tiny—practically the size of a shoebox—but it had everything we needed, including a fully equipped kitchenette and a charming little balcony, perfect for enjoying breakfast with a view.

Day Two: Skiing in Zell am See

7 AM wake-up. Time to hit the slopes! With the temperature at a frosty -4°C, we layered up—twice—unaware that we’d be shedding most of it soon enough. Two ski lifts carried us up the mountain, where we met our 25-year-old Austrian ski instructor, Martin from Bruck Fusch SkiSchule. The kind of skier who casually glides backward while giving instructions, Martin had the challenging task of transforming my wobbly, questionable ski stance into something at least semi-acceptable for the Austrian slopes.

Despite my initial nerves, Martin’s guidance helped me feel far more confident and in control than I had the year before. That first day brought two starkly different emotions: fear, stress, and an intense leg burn, but also freedom, exhilaration, and an overwhelming sense of being truly alive. I live for that feeling—so burn, legs, burn!

We spent the rest of the day carving our way down every blue slope we could find, gaining confidence with each turn. After a few humbling rookie falls, we rewarded ourselves with Aperols, pizza, and glühwein before skiing all the way down, utterly exhausted. Five hours of skiing and 2,800 calories burned—we practically passed out the second we got back. A well-earned rest after an unforgettable day on the slopes!

Day Three: Kitzsteinhorn Glacier – 3,029m Above the World

After a deep, much-needed sleep, we woke up at 7 AM, ready for another adventure. We enjoyed a hearty breakfast on our icy balcony—a crisp -1°C morning—before hurrying to catch the 8:20 AM 660 bus to the famous Kitzsteinhorn Glacier. Unique to the Zell am See/Kaprun area, this glacier is renowned for its breathtaking views and pristine slopes.

Little did we know, this would be the highlight of our entire trip.

The 40-minute bus ride was anything but comfortable—squashed between ski gear and fellow adventurers—but anticipation kept our spirits high. When we arrived at the base, we were met with the first of four massive, state-of-the-art cable cars—Gletscherjet 1—which would carry us all the way to the peak. As we ascended, I gained a whole new level of respect for the engineering marvel that made this journey possible.

Interesting Fact:

The K-ONNECTION cable car stretches 12 km from Kaprun town center (768m) to the Kitzsteinhorn summit station (3,029m). Not only is it the longest cable car route in the Eastern Alps, but it also covers the most vertical meters. (Source: Kitzsteinhorn website)

That day, I witnessed one of the most breathtaking views of my life.

Sitting silently in the cable car, surrounded by an endless sea of snow-covered peaks and freshly groomed slopes, I felt a rare sense of complete stillness. One of those rare, fleeting moments when the world feels frozen in time, and you’re simply in awe. It reminded me of another core memory—watching an elephant peacefully graze in the South African bush while on safari. That same overwhelming sense of peace, as if my heart might stop for just a moment. A quiet note to myself: Create more of these heart-stopping moments in life.

Despite the daunting forecast of -14°C, we were blessed with clear skies and a much milder -3°C throughout the day. Perfect skiing conditions! I made a habit of taking regular breaks to soak it all in—sipping on rum-infused hot chocolate while admiring the spectacular views.

The skiers and snowboarders around us exuded a laid-back, infectious joy—just happy to be there, relishing the thrill of the mountains. It was almost surreal. Picture this: a diverse crowd of international skiers, all bundled up in bulky boots and helmets, belting out “Wie hat die Mutter von Nicky Lauda” at 3,000 meters above sea level on a snow-covered peak. Bizarre? Absolutely.Unforgettable? Without a doubt.

Oh, and if you visit, don’t miss the Igloo! Sure, it’s mostly an Audi marketing gimmick, housing one of their latest models, but it’s still a super cool and futuristic experience—definitely worth a quick stop! The skiers and boarders around us were just so relaxed and joyful to be there. It's bizarre, really—a bunch of internationals, all dressed in bulky boots and helmets, singing to "Wie hat die Mutter von Nicky Lauda" atop a snow-covered mountain at 3,000m above sea level. I can't imagine it getting weirder or more fun than this.

Day Four: Saalbach

One of the biggest perks of the Zell am See ski pass is that it grants access to all the Saalbach slopes. We had been told that Saalbach’s slopes were more extensive and wider than those in Zell am See. However, we opted to stay in Zell am See because accommodation there was significantly cheaper at this time of year. Plus, it had the added bonus of charming little shops and proximity to the glacier. As my confidence grew, I decided to challenge myself with a red slope—after all, if three-year-olds were effortlessly conquering them, how hard could it be? Big mistake.

I fell. I cried. For a moment, I just wanted to lie there in the snow and feel sorry for myself. But with skiers hurtling down at full speed, I realized I’d get trampled if I didn’t move. So, I swallowed my pride and returned to my safe, familiar blue slopes. After skiing, we embraced the full après-ski experience at Schwips Bar in Saalbach—a wild scene filled with rowdy Dutch groups (who had driven all the way from Holland), a German party playlist, and shots served with actual fire. Would I attempt a red slope again? Maybe. But for now, I’ll stick to my Aperol and après-ski!

Tips / What We Would Do Differently

• Pack thin, tactile gloves and a headband/beanie—trust me, you’ll need them unless you want your ears and fingers to freeze off! My ski mittens had enough room to wear these underneath, which was a lifesaver.

• If you still feel like a beginner (like me!), I highly recommend investing in a proper ski instructor. The confidence and reassurance you gain are absolutely worth the cost—and could spare you many tears (and bruises) along the way.

• Save money on food by making your own breakfast and packing lunch in your backpack—just like the locals do! Restaurant meals cost around €20 per person, so bringing your own snacks and sandwiches can make a big difference.

• Get to the slopes first! Early mornings offer freshly groomed snow, shorter queues, and plenty of space to ski freely. By midday, the slopes become crowded, and the snow turns into slushy waves—perfect for falling or crashing!